This article is from June 2008 edition of 5280 magazine.
http://www.5280.com/issues/2008/0806/feature.php?pageID=1149
From tiny mom and pops to giant national chains, these local joints consistently do it up right. Big Jim's Ribs
For the last five years, Big Jim has peddled barbecue out of a trailer parked along Parker Road. Just pull up, walk up to the smoker, and pick out what you want. Big Jim, an Arkansas native who swears by hickory smoke, serves up 'cue year-round—and it's worth a detour if you're in the area.
Order up Spareribs, chopped beef brisket
Bones to pick The area surrounding the trailer can be very muddy, the 'cue is served covered in sauce, and Jim likes to talk...a lot.
Southwest corner of South Parker Road and Longs Way in Parker, 303-771-2641
Big Papa's BBQ
Order Big Papa's smoked meats as entrées or by the pound, and expect depth of flavor and just the right amount of caramelization. Indulge in a regional tour of Big Papa's barbecue sauces: Maggie's Deep South (tomato, vinegar, spicy and sweet), Heidi's Kansas City (sweet, thick, and tomato-based), Suzy's Carolina (spicy mustard), and Maureen's Memphis (slightly sweet and tomato-based).
Order up St. Louis-style spareribs, bison ribs, smoked chicken, barbecue beans, mac 'n' cheese, and fried okra
Bones to pick The beef brisket could use more smoke, and the meat is brushed with sauce before it's served.
6265 E. Evans Ave., Unit 1, 303-300-4499, and 12652 W. Ken Caryl Ave., Littleton, 720-922-3233, www.bigpapas-bbq.com
Countrytime BBQ
Countrytime, which opened in southwest Denver in August 2007, advertises its barbecue as "wood-pit smoked." (For proof look to the woodpile next to the smoker.) This new establishment is a bare-bones operation with a few stools, Styrofoam containers, plastic silverware, and ungodly good eats.
Order up Thick slices of well-smoked beef brisket, a generous mound of pulled pork, and medallions of spicy sausage
Bones to pick It's pretty much a take-out place without telling you so—and the staff doesn't always answer the phone.
2504 W. Hampden Ave., Sheridan, 720-404-1916
Hog Wild Barbecue
This unassuming spot in south Denver (formerly called Smoking Joe's Hickory Bar-BQ) puts out some surprisingly good barbecue. The Southern expatriates behind Hog Wild actually run two shops—one in Denver and one in Fort Collins.
Order up Smoked chicken, pork spareribs
Bones to pick The beef brisket tastes more like roast beef, and the kitchen puts too much sauce on the chopped brisket servings.
2103 S. Broadway, 720-570-0911, and 223 S. Link Lane, Fort Collins, 970-493-6029, www.hogwildcolorado.com
Jim 'n Nick's Bar-B-Q
This Birmingham, Alabama-based chain came on the Denver barbecue scene in 2006, and they've made their mark by serving up genuine Southern-style barbecue. This shop is named for Jim and Nick Pihakis, a father-and-son team who typified how Greek immigrants to the South have embraced all things barbecue.
Order up Pulled pork, spareribs, the sausage and pimiento cheese appetizer—and cheese biscuits so good they could be classified as a controlled substance.
Bones to pick: Long waits during peak times.
24153 E. Prospect Ave. (Southlands shopping center), Aurora, 720-274-5300, and 8264 E. 49th Ave. (Northfield shopping center), 303-371-1566, www.jimnnicks.com
KT's BBQ
Kirk and Tricia Jamison were so inspired by the legendary Pecos Pit BBQ in their hometown of Seattle that they modeled their own barbecue joint after it. And thus, KT's BBQ first opened in Boulder in 1992. Now the eatery, which dishes out Memphis-style barbecue, has two locations in the Boulder area, one in Broomfield, and a Denver eatery in the works.
Order up Meaty baked beans, incredible coleslaw with a great balance of vinegar, crunchiness, and creaminess, and the "June Bowl"—a layered salad of barbecued meat, barbecue sauce, and a barbecue side such as coleslaw
Bones to pick We didn't get much flavor from the chicken and pulled pork.
Multiple locations, www.ktsbbq.com
Paradise BBQ
No, this isn't a misprint—Paradise BBQ is a fresh-from-the-smoker brand of barbecue that can be found at select Whole Foods. While shopping one day, we were pleasantly surprised by the smoky perfume of applewood and made a beeline to the counter. What we tasted surprised us even more: Flavorful cuts of meat pulled and chopped right before our eyes. (Note: Only these Whole Foods have smokehouses on site, so plan accordingly.)
Order up Flavorful pulled pork (make sure you get the outside "bark" where the seasoning lies), excellent beef brisket, and tender chicken
Bones to pick The sausage was a garlic sausage (not the hot links variety normally associated with barbecue), the smoked turkey was cold, and we didn't get much seasoning on the baby back ribs or the spareribs.
Whole Foods Market, 7400 E. Hampden Ave., 303-488-2000, and 444 S. Wadsworth Blvd., Lakewood, 303-935-5000, www.wholefoodsmarket.com
Honorable Mention
Brothers BBQ
We credit the recent wave of Denver's barbecue proliferation to Chris and Nick O'Sullivan, the British-born siblings who, a decade ago, set up their first shop close to George Washington High School. Brothers BBQ has been making loot ever since, but the goods have grown inconsistent—sometimes it's good, and other times it's just OK. Even so, we'll give the boys a shout out, with the hopes that they get their groove back. If you do go, the savory pork shoulder sandwich and the meaty baked beans are dependable.
Multiple locations, www.brothers-bbq.com
M&D's Café
Since 1978, Mack and Daisy Shead have served up righteous 'cue in their combo barbecue-Southern food spot in Five Points. We frequent M&D's for the side dishes (don't miss the cornmeal-battered fried green tomatoes) and the unforgettable peach cobbler as much as we do for the barbecue. Yet, these days, consistency seems to be an issue; opt for the pork spareribs, a safe bet and standout.
2000 E. 28th Ave., 303-296-1760, www.mdsfoodproducts.com
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